An awful platform for a great product
It might be an uncomfortable home truth, but too many West Indian takeaways are providing a terrible representation of the diaspora and its culture
Food is one of the most accessible manifestations of a community and it provides a great opportunity to share and exchange cultural experiences. Just consider how many of us enjoy cuisine from countries that we’ve never visited or otherwise been exposed to. It helps to bridge the gap between ignorance, and indeed arrogance, between our own culture and that of others.
Dining out or ordering a takeaway of food not of our own background can therefore play a bigger role in cultural diversity than we give it credit for. The owner of an establishment, and perhaps even the staff, are likely to be of the same ethnicity as the food. And in more culturally and racially homogeneous locations, they may be even represent a rare encounter with someone from said background.
West Indian restaurants and takeaways are no different. While the West Indian community in countries like the UK, Canada and America is highly visible, a West Indian takeaway may nevertheless be the first taste a non-West Indian has of the rich and colourful culture the West Indies has to offer. However, in the customer experience they present, lamentably, far too many West Indian takeaways are providing an awful platform for an incredible product in West Indian food and the culture it represents.
I’m always keen to proudly champion and support businesses and positive reflections of the West Indian diaspora. Unfortunately, for too many West Indian takeaways, that’s something I’m unable to do in good faith.
My issue is rarely with the food. Sure, I’ve had some disappointments but by and large, that hasn’t been a problem. What is, is the service and lack of professionalism that has become commonplace with many West Indian takeaways.
We’ve all attempted to order food from a menu at a restaurant or takeaway of any type of food, only to be told it’s not available. It’s disappointing, especially when we’ve had a real hankering for something, but it happens. Though with many West Indian takeaways, that disappointment is far from isolated. There always seems to be several items unavailable, even from the outset of the day. I seriously doubt some items on the menu of certain West Indian takeaways have ever graced the shop. The author of the menu just thought they’d add it in case one day they fancied making something different.
This is the crux of the problem with too many West Indian takeaways. Rather than resembling an efficient business, they’re run haphazardly with little planning. The proprietors just happen to be decent cooks. No business can survive without catering to the needs and desires of its customers. Yet this is exactly how many are operated and it’s an embarrassment.
Availability of what’s on the menu has become a running joke that means many, including myself, won’t take many West Indian takeaways seriously. If you’ve got dietary requirements, good luck with the odds of getting something you can actually eat. My wife is vegetarian and this has been an exchange I’ve had at various takeaways when I’ve attempted to order her a vegetable patty, or anything vegetarian for that matter:
Me: Can I get a vegetable patty?
Staff: Vegetable patty dun
Me: Vegetable soup?
Staff: It finish this morning
Me: Anything vegetarian?
Staff: You eat fish?
It’s a laughable encounter that I imagine many are familiar with. But it’s also one that wrongly portrays West Indians as unprofessional and ignorant.
Alas, that isn’t where the unprofessionalism ends. The sometimes indifferent and gruff demeanour of the person serving you is hardly a way to ingratiate yourself with the customer. Nor is it going to get repeat or new customers via word of mouth. On Ray Blk’s My Hood, Stormzy even rapped “the woman in the Caribbean shop is always rude, tryna get a patty just to compliment my food, so why you gotta tell my friends to move”.
Then there’s the tardiness in serving customers. I’m here for food you’ve already prepared, so why does it take so long? As a rule, there are some West Indian takeaways that I won’t even join the queue for if there’s someone already ahead of me. I don’t have 10 minutes to wait for a patty while you take your sweet time as the queue grows behind me.
This isn’t the image of the culture that we need and it isn’t an accurate one either. There’s cultural nuance and then there’s bad customer service. Too often it’s the case of the latter and it’s depicting West Indians in a less than favourable light.
Consequently, non-West Indians have seen an opportunity that hasn’t been seized. West Indian food is a great product; like any product, if it’s marketed and packaged well, it’ll sell. Realising this, restaurant chains like Turtle Bay have opened, albeit providing a watered down experience.
The food at these restaurants undoubtedly lacks the authenticity and flavour that only the diaspora can bring but it’s unsurprising as they aren’t of, or invested in, the culture. Although, not being of the culture, do they have any responsibility to ensure it does?
Thankfully, others who are from the diaspora have also been astute enough to realise that professionalism and a quality product need to be present when selling West Indian food.
Visit Jamaica Patty Co. and the quality of the product is undeniable. And with Blue Mountain Coffee and Devon House ice cream, quality and authenticity is clearly something they pride themselves on. But the professionalism in their customer service, without distancing themselves from their Jamaican roots, is too. And whatever you order from the menu is available. There’s no “patties dun” around here.
Similarly, The Doubles Kitchen, a Trinidadian street food caterer, recognises the value of not scrimping on professionalism in the events they cater for. Moreover, not only is their food mouth-wateringly delicious, but the overall experience is a great introduction to the flavour, vibrancy and warmth that capture what the West Indian diaspora is about.
I want to see, and promote, the best possible representations of my West Indian culture. Sadly, when it comes to the food of the diaspora, too many West Indian takeaways just aren’t allowing that to happen.
